DOC200 Tunnel Assembly Instructions

Material List(for one tunnel)

1 – Base – 545mm x 220mm x 17mm (All ply D.D. Grade H3 Construction)
2 – Sides – 545mm x 195mm x 12mm (can use 9mm ply but some adjustments needed)
1 – Top – 570mm x 220mm x 12mm (can use 9mm ply)
1 – Centre – 170mm high x 196mm wide (This is the width of the base (220mm) less the two sides thicknesses).

All timber H3 treated.
1 end rail – 40mm x 18mm x 196mm (or the same width as the centre)
1 step up cross rail – 20mm high x 25mm wide x 180mm long (fixed to base)
1 entry cleat – 95mm to 100mm long x 25mm x 18mm
2 Under base cleats – 220mm x 30mm x 25mm

Mesh 10mm to 12mm squares: 220mm wide x 205mm high (entry end) with an cut out 75mm wide x 65mm high (when fixed in place, this leaves an opening hole of 65mm x 65mm). Measurements to suit the mesh squares and to fit on the top section or box.
Mesh (the other end) – 220mm wide x 195mm high. Measurements to suit the mesh squares.
2 – Hinges = 25mm strap zinc brace cut to 75mm long. (One length 600mm long x 25mm x 1mm will make 4 pair of hinges, 75mm long. (The holes will have to be re-drilled to fit the screws and drill one larger hole for the Hex screw).
2 – Hex/Tex galvanised wood exterior screws #12~11 x 25mm long.
4 – self tapping screws 6ga x 20mm Pan-Pozi stainless 304 (to fix hinge to top section or box)
4 – csk square stainless steel 8ga x 38mm screws (To fix rail to top section or box)
2 – 6mm x 30mm stainless steel bolts (to fix trap to base)
Wire: 18g x 1.25g (or similar) for bait hook.

Galvanised Nails:
For Bottom cleats, for step up cross rail, for entry cleat, for the top & centre division fixing – use galvanised flat head (FH) nails 40mm x 2mm (for top to sides and central division); Clout Galv. 30mm x 2.5mm for cleats to the base.
For Egg holder – 3 FH Galvanised nails 60 x 2.80mm (or similar).
For “lock” nail – 1 FH Galvanised nail 60 x 2.80mm (or similar).
Staples for fixing mesh – I have a Rapid 34, Model B stapler and I use 12mm staples to fix the mesh. Tap the staples flat with a hammer if they don’t go in completely.

Ply sheets (for a number of tunnels)
Bases: out of one 2.4m x 1.2 sheet of ply can be cut 20 bases (5 across x 4 down)
Sides: out of one 2.4m x 1.2m sheet of ply can be cut 24 bases (6 across x 4 down)
Tops: out of one 2.4m x 1.2m sheet of ply can be cut 20 tops (5 across x 4 down)

Construction Notes: Please read all this before making a start!

The trap tunnel can be left or right handed!! The trap tunnel in the illustration is right handed. To operate; reach over and withdraw the “lock” nail, lift the top section or box with your left hand, place your left foot firmly on the base behind the trap; (the trap is cleaned and the bait placed with the trap sprung). After the bait is placed, with the right hand lift the trap bar, while the left hand places the trigger by the nock on the plate. The top section or box is then lowered. Do not spring the trap empty. To do any testing I use my “pet rat” which consists of some bubble wrapping, wrapped around a stick.

I like to use 12mm ply for the sides and top but 9mm ply is okay. Look for specials at a good price. These plans are using 12mm ply but if you use 9mm ply – make suitable adjustments to some measurements (base width and top width) but keep the internal measurements or in other words, place any variation thickness towards the outside of the tunnel.

All the components are made first. The top, sides, and base cut out; the centre division cut out; cleats and rails cut; hinges made – although the mesh is best cut to size last.

I don’t glue anything. I use galvanised nails for fixing the top and centre but use stainless steel screws for the trap end rail and stainless steel bolts to hold the trap in place.

My trap tunnel has a 25mm overhang on the top at the trap end. This forms a ‘handle’ to lift the top section clear of the trap (no wire mesh to prick ones fingers). For ease in handling, I arris three of the top edges of the top ~ the two sides plus the top and bottom of the ‘handle’ end.

I have a step-up cross rail to the trap platform or plate. (Assists in holding the base flat with less risk of warping). I also like to help the pests onto the plate! Make sure this is clear (say a 5mm gap) of the central division as it comes down to the step up cross rail.

The base is made up first complete with all cleats and the hinges in place. The hinges are fixed to the base with the hex screw 18mm back from the end. I make a 8mm chamfer on the base at the hinge end so that the top section can be held open at right angles while re baiting and cleaning. At the entry end I have a short, say 25mm x 25mm or such x 95mm to 100mm long entry cleat fixed to the base the opposite side to the entry hole. This is to deter any weka trying to force their way into the trap. I fix the under base cleats, 25mm x 25mm or such x 220mm long with galvanised nails. These under base cleats will keep the base clear from the ground and assist with drying if wet.

It is important to make sure that the centre division’s side that is nearest to the trap plate is 290mm from the entry end. The same applies to the step up cross rail. The edge or side of the centre division and the edge of the step up cross rail must line up on the side nearest to the trap plate. That is for both the step up cross rail and the centre division, the side nearest the trap plate is 290mm from the entry end.

The centre division comes down onto the step up cross rail but is about 5mm shorter in height which will leave 5mm clearance between it and the step up cross rail when the top section or box is lowered.

With this step up cross rail installed, I drill the right sized hole for a galvanised nail through the side of the tunnel and into this cross rail to “lock” the trap. Drill the nail hole just deep enough to have the head of the nail sticking out from the side about 30mm. Approach the trap, reach over, withdraw the nail, and then lift the top. You have to pull the nail out, otherwise the top stays where it is. A nice simple lock! This nail is on the opposite side to approaching the trap, provided you are right handed. In other words, approach the trap with the hinge on your left. Reach over & pull out the lock nail, lift top, place left foot on the base, then set the trap with your right hand. Sounds funny right or left handed traps, but that’s what they are! You have to make sure the central entry hole is the right way around to the trap plate. The “lock” nail could be replaced by a screw for extra safety if necessary.

The sides: At the hinge end of each side, I cut out a small piece to allow for the top to keep clear of the base with opening. This is 8mm high x 30mm to 40mm long, from the end. I use a buzzer (or planer) to do this. Make sure the sides are in pairs when you make this rebate.

The top and sides are assembled next along with the centre division and end rail. The end (trap end) rail is fixed about 2 or 3mm up from the bottom edge of each side. This means that when the top section or box is lowered, the bottom rail is up from the base by 2mm to 3mm. This is to make sure that the top section or box will nearly always close even if there is some rubbish on the base.

Check and make sure the central division entry hole is the right way around. That is the hole is on the opposite side of the tunnel to the end mesh entry hole.
For the centre division, I use even thicker ply if there are any off-cuts around, for extra strength – 12mm is ideal as this makes nailing a lot easier.

The top section is then fixed to the base. When screwing the base and hinge to the top section; place a 1½ mm temporary spacer on the base by the hinge before screwing the top in place. Remove this spacer when the screws are in place. On one side (nearest the entry hole), the screws might protrude too much. These can be nipped off or slightly bent to allow the pest better entry.

The trap is then bolted in place. I use 6mm x 30mm stainless steel bolts to fix the trap to the base. (The DOC200 traps are now drilled for this size hole). Allow 5mm clearance from the trap plate, to the side, and 5mm clear from the central division. The trap is best tested before the mesh is fixed. (Make up a “pet rat” as mentioned above). When testing, on occasions the trap trigger will jamb against one side. To fix this I use a hammer; place the claw on the trap arm that holds the trigger and bend this bar downwards slightly. Set the trap, and test again. The mesh is fixed last – after the testing.

I can triple bait; with a wire suspended nearby the egg. This wire is shaped like an L and then a small loop is fashioned (to hold peanut butter) then the wire is upturned about 50mm. (it looks like a – “u” with one side short and a little loop on the bottom) The upturn is to place a piece of rabbit meat or such. So in effect the trap can have an egg, some peanut butter and a piece of rabbit as bait.

A hole can be drilled to take a cord to tie the trap to a stake or tree if required, if there is a problem with flooding. This can be drilled on the base opposite the egg holder nails. The cord is knotted inside the trap with the cord coming out from under the base to tie to a tree or a stake.

Good luck and be pest free!