St James Walk is of 66 km or 67 km or 68 km; it just depends which signpost you read.  We decided to follow the 66 km one. We met a chap who ran around the track in two days but we decided to do it in four nights and five days. But first, some travel arrangements to be made. The Boyle Outdoor Education Centre provide a shuttle service and car storage. It costs a bit at $27.00 for the shuttle and $10.00 per day for car storage but we thought it worthwhile. We were to be at the Boyle Lodge at 10am to arrange the car shuttle.

We arrived at the Lewis Pass carpark at the start of the St James walk first though, and dropped off Shirl and Polly, for them to start walking, while Ron and I continued to the Boyle Lodge. We did contemplate carrying on to Christchurch but thought the better of it. The first time I did this walk a number of years ago it was; your car will be parked here and your car key will be hidden here. This time we had to fill out a form, sign here and when you return, do this and do that. Oh, well, such is progress but we did arrive back at the Lewis Pass carpark at the start of the track at 10.30am and started walking to catch up with Polly and Shirl. We were heading for Ada hut and the sign said it was 10 km away.

Cannibal Gorge

On the way we arrived at the Cannibal Gorge hut at 1.05pm. Cannibal Gorge was named after  a past incident many years ago. Well, no freeze dried in those days but then, was it named after the bloodthirsty sandflies that inhabit the area now? We certainly didn’t have our lunch outside but had it in the hut to get away from the little beasties. There are not many different species in New Zealand but they certainly make up for this with a superabundance of individuals. Or at least the superabundance of females as they are the ones that bite – or suck: or do both. Here’s a little trick that a friend told me many years ago; if any sandflies are busy at work on any exposed skin, just hold your breath and you can swat them. While holding your breath you can even put your finger on one and roll it around and it can’t extract itself. For some reason holding your breath locks them to your skin. Okay, this is not much consolation but it’s a bit annoying when you go to swat one blood sucker and just as your hand comes down, it flies away. (Thanks for the tip Stratt) I have always wondered, what do they feed on when there are no humans around? Try out some cannibalisation – on the males maybe?

Near Ada Pass Hut

Every so often we passed riflemen and robins as we went along the track. It was good to see and watch them. Later we past avalanche warning notices and although there was no threatening snow up high, I found I kept glancing uphill now and then just in case. We came to the Billy Goat Gruff Bridge and soon after arrived at Ada Hut at 3.20pm. There was plenty of time for tired muscles to ease and then cook tea. While doing so a robin hopped through the door of hut looking for titbits. They were mostly sandflies and we were happy enough about that.  

Will at the Old Ada Pass Deercullers Hut

The Next Morning, Wednesday: and we left the hut at 8.30am. Soon after we were walking over the Ada Pass at 8.45am. There was 10.5 km still to go to Christopher Hut. Not long later we were walking on the St James Station of 173,340 hectares. St James Station was of 800 000 hectares but now only 80 000 hectares. I’m not sure about these figures as this also depends on what or which you read. Anyway, it is a large area for sure and plenty of space to get lost in. We knew we were on the right track though when we passed the old historic Old Ada Cullers Hut. We had also passed a number of Canada geese and while doing so could look back and see Mts Gloriana (2218m asl); Faerie Queene (2236m asl) resting up high on the Spenser Range.

‘Windows’ of the Deercullers Hut: Looks to be from an old WW2 Bren Gun Carrier.

We arrived at Christopher Hut at 12.30pm. An easy day that was, but working up to the longer days ahead. The view from the hut of the mountains along the Spencer Range was pretty impressive too. Talking to a couple of volunteers who were painting parts of the hut helped pass the time away.  Later that evening we watched three hares frolicking on the grass around the hut.

Mt Gloriana

Thursday: We left Christopher Hut at 8.10am heading for Anne Hut (15 km and 5 hrs away). I think I  forgot to mention the sandflies.  Don’t forget to try out Stratt’s sandfly trick though?

Some Magpies were seen soon after leaving Christopher Hut and there was plenty of fresh pig rooting along the sides of the track too.  Then we came to a small heap of feathers on the track. There were signs of two scuffles, with the first being the pounce and the second the securing no doubt. The feathers were coloured looking something like from a pheasant but not exactly so I wondered if it was a partridge that had been caught. It was certainly no doubt the work of a cat. Later we read in one of the hut books of a large cat seen on this section of the track.

Hunting Spider

Soon we were passing the St James homestead in the distance, following the new track up  a little higher as the river has cut into the bank, washing away the old track. Once around “the corner” we were walking up the Henry Valley and soon came to another swingbridge. It wasn’t too long after, that the new Ann Hut came into view.

The Anne Hut stands out in the open a bit like a sore thumb really but I guess it is pretty safe from avalanches and washouts. It is almost brand new being built in 2011 after the old Ann Hut was burnt down by a tramper’s stove I heard. The new, at 890m asl, has double glazed  windows, insect screens and even an emergency radio. It appears that one can listen to weather forecasts too. Later that evening, just on dusk, about 25 to 30 horses suddenly appeared feeding on the tussock after emerging from some matagouri scrub. I had a wander over towards them with the stallion keeping a watchful eye on me all the time.

Wild Horse near Anne Hut

 Friday: We left Anne Hut at 8am starting the walk to the Boyle Flats Hut. The sign said it was 15 km and would take 7 hours. Soon after leaving the hut we disturbed the horses feeding down a side gully. Later as we crossed a small creek, we also disturbed two hunting spiders fraternising between some river stones. They were huge, say about 70mm across and a little longer in length. Fearsome enough for me let alone if one happened to be only 25mm tall!

We reached the Anne Saddle (1136m asl.) at 10.50am for a little break. Mostly downhill from here, through beech forest and up and down over small streams that joined the main river which was now the Boyle. Leaving the beech forest we passed over grass covered flats but they weren’t exactly flat but anyway, they seemed like it.

Mt Una

Throughout the walk there was much evidence of Canada geese flattened clumps of grass, quite a lot of possum and hare sign too. Sometimes we watched geese fly by in their V-like formations. They would be the most numerous wildlife that we saw. Except for the sandflies.

We gathered up again at the Rokeby Hut for lunch. It is a small hut and people can stay here too but it only has three bunks. No mattresses as such as the bunks just had a canvas type of material stretched over a frame. It is old with character but spoilt by a new exit sign above the door. For goodness sake, the hut is only about 9 feet by 9 feet with one window and a fireplace! The fireplace is an old stove complete with oven. Sadly some people have been trying to light a fire in the oven. Sadly? Yes, as the young just don’t know about the old days. Well, not so much as that but they couldn’t figure out the difference between an oven and the fire box.  Rokeby – pronounced “rowk-bee” or sometimes “rookbee” named most likely after a poem of the same name by Sir Walter Scott.

Boyle Flat Hut

From here it was only an hour’s walk to the Boyle Hut, arriving at 2.30pm.  Another swingbridge provided access to the hut situated at  980m above sea level – just not high enough to be above those pesky sandflies. It’s an old hut too with plenty of room, no insect screens but plenty of character although it could do with a bit of a clean up.

Saturday, The Last Day: We left the Boyle Hut 8.20am heading for the Boyle Village and our vehicle, the sign said it was 14.5km and would take 5 hours. It didn’t take long to reach the swing bridge crossing the Boyle River at 9.20am and the turnoff to the Magdalen Hut.  We kept on going through bush and open flats, heading for the end of our walk.  We were now in the Lake Sumner Forest Park, still follow the Boyle River, which ran into the Hope, which ran into the Waiau which ran into the Pacific Ocean many miles away.  We passed through beech forest, grassy clearings and then we saw our first wasp. A little later I watched a good sized trout patrolling one of the pools in the river and then we came to the last swingbridge which meant that we weren’t too far from the end of our journey. About half an hour later we arrived at the Boyle Lodge and our vehicle. (About 12.20pm)

A good tramp, good scenery, empty huts, good weather and good companions.  Except for the sandflies.

Here’s a logical thought – if you’ve read some pages of a book, does it get any lighter?

My pack weighed 16.2kg = 35lbs which included a sleeping mat and a sleeping bag cover ( – just in case all the bunks in the huts were taken up)

Rainfall at our place during March was 120mm but most of this, 93mm, fell on the 16-17th of the month. Our average for this month is 72mm.